Bar Meditations: The Arts & The Science [by Kelechi Deca]

One of the greatest and most influential writers to come of France, Victor Hugo, once said that:

” If your taste buds are alert enough, you may note the organoleptic complexity and aromatic finesse of cognac”, that’s probably why he called it ‘the liquor of the gods”

I have been asked for the distinctions between a VSOP, XO, then Cognac and Champagne so many times that the more I write about them, the more questions.

I took a friend to make some purchases at Naija Liquor the other day and someone recognised me that was how an unplanned masterclass ensued.

But in spite of my reluctance not to engage in Bar Talk, I still think it is better to discuss Cognac, Champagne, and Whiskey than NNPCL, Dangote and Puff Daddy’s lubricants.

There are reasons why the French are so particular about their drinks. To them it is more than just “Waters of Life”, they are cultural identities.

That’s why they will always insist that a Cognac must be made in the Cognac region of France for it to be qualified to be a Cognac, the same way as Champagne. But they have allowed Brandy to be made anywhere.

The French believe that the soil structure that grows the unique grapes in both Cognac and Champagne regions cannot be found anywhere, so the grapes and fruits grown there are parts of the unique identities not only of the people, but also of the region.

What this means is that if you want to invest in that industry, you must do so in France.

And to rub it in, they have the saying that while a Brandy can be made anywhere, a Cognac can only be made in Cognac. Even though technically, a Cognac is still a Brandy.

Brandy generally refers to a distilled spirit made from fermented fruit juice, it can be produced using grapes or other fruits.

And to make their things appear and sound special, they append them with special names which have endured the years.

For example, VSOP means Very Superior Old Pale referring to the ageing process of the fruits. VSOP Cognacs are created from eaux-de-vie which literally means water or life that are from four years and above, they have designations such as Old and Reserve.

XO on the other hand stands for Extra Old. They are made from eaux-de-vie that are at least six years and above.

It is said that Cognac is to Brandy what Champagne is to sparkling wine.

In 1818 for the future King George IV of Great Britain was so mesmerized by Cognac that Hennessy created the Hennessy V.S.O.P Privilege in his honour.

The VSOP Privilege was a first for the industry, creating a new classification and setting a benchmark for all cognac makers as a sign of elevated quality and aging.

Connoisseurs say that it is best to drink Cognac with a thin narrow glass, this is because its narrow shape helps to capture the richness of the Cognac and less of the alcohol.

Someone asked me recently the strategies behind Hennessey’s rise to global stardom in the last few years and I promised to write about it someday.

But while at it, it is noteworthy that in this Bulabanomics human beings buy the Henri IV Dudognon Heritage Cognac Grande Champagne, the most expensive Cognac in the world, repeatedly sold for USD 1.9 million.

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